Wednesday, November 3, 2010

The Revival Story: Whole Hog. No Hogwash.


From snout to tail, from root to shoot, from toes to nose, Revival Bar + Kitchen is going whole-hog on local, sustainable, farm-to-table cuisine.

Why whole-hog? Why not just cherry-pick ingredients labeled “organic” or “hormone-free” and call it a day? Because at Revival, we recognize that those labels don’t tell the whole story, and we like stories. So we cultivate relationships with producers – farmers, ranchers, coffee-roasters and winemakers – who are passionate about their products and have a good sense of how they fit in the community. Producers like Allison Evanow of Square One Organic Spirits, whose company is female majority-owned, who knows that being a social activist can go hand in hand with an active social life, and whose organic American rye vodka our bar coolly complements with fresh Armenian cucumber.



Or like Long & Bailey Farms, where we get our whole hogs. And yes, you’ll find most all of the whole hog – from trotters to pickled pig ears – on our menu any given week.

When it comes down to it, what we’re doing is conservative: we’ve got women in the kitchen making fruit conserves and pickling peppers, just like our grandmothers did, preserving seasonal produce and culinary traditions at the same time. But in an age of microwaves and mass production, making your own conserves, brightened with local Meyer lemon and slow-cooked to perfection, is revolutionary. And with a female owner, female pastry chef, and female chef de cuisine, sourcing ingredients from Farmer Jane and going against the grain of macho-male chef culture, we’re also going against the grain-fed, high-fructose-hyped industrial agricultural machine. We’re coming full circle, re-implementing the culinary techniques that make food last longer, taste better, and really revive us, in body and in soul. That’s revolutionary.

Downtown Berkeley, including the 1901 building Revival now calls home, used to be a vibrant cultural center. It can be that way again. It just might take a little culturing – the revelation in a bite of house-cured bacon, the piquancy of a pickled piquillo pepper – to get that revival revved up. There’s nothing like good old-fashioned fermentation to get a community in a ferment. And by complementing our menu with biodynamic wines from innovative local vintners and a seasonal selection of cocktails (traditional, original, and traditional-with-a-twist), we’re all about showing just how exciting sustainability can be. So come on in, and let us shake up a Violet Femme and serve you a restorative repast, like skewered beef heart with celery-heart salsa verde. We hope you’ll feel revived. And we mean that whole-heartedly.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Vive La Revolution Culinaire: Bastille Day

Bastille Day in America? Two hundred and twenty one years later? In a California bistro?

Yes.

And I'll tell you why.

Revolution. Freedom. People inspiring people. Whether politically or culinarily...cross-pollination is often a good thing, especially when it comes to ideas and food.

There is an historic allegiance between France and America. Even without a good history lesson, the average American knows the basics of French food...french fries, french onion soup, french dip...even pate. The French did a lot for our taste buds. I'd love to time travel back to the 18th century and work with a master chef. There must some fascinating culinary history about the development of cuisine throughout the 2nd millennium.

Meanwhile, here we are in 2010, celebrating Bastille Day in Berkeley. Why? Good food and freedom. Culinary revolution. History feels and tastes good. And more importantly, a modern california bistro got it roots somewhere, and like it or not, classic french cuisine impacted us too. There are just so many good things to eat in France. And drink. Mussels without wine? Cheese from a can? Wonder bread? We need the French in our food.

And life without Champagne?

There is a food revolution here in America. People want it fresh, organic, unadulterated, and without the Monsanto. People want more vegetables in their food, and less fat. And we all want vitality. The number of organic markets, local farms, and "avant garde" food producers continues to grow at an astonishing rate. Victory gardens are all the rage. People want better food now, and are doing something about it.

So, Revolution Culinaire? You betcha. California brings it. Revival Bar + Kitchen celebrates it. We look back to these traditions from France, and to the hearty souls who had to do everything from scratch, butcher their own animals, pickle and preserve their produce, ferment to preserve...and live without freezers, microwaves, genetic interference, or additives.

Vive la Revolution Culinaire!

Sunday, July 11, 2010

It's About Time

Remember that silly lyric...as a child?
"it's about time, it's about space, it's about time to slap your face?"

Well. I realized something this morning, as I relished the space of
some time off from my dear little pressure cooker--it takes time.
It takes time.

Perfect doesn't happen overnight. Or in 7 weeks. Even symphonies have
to practice practice practice and play together, and tune, and get to know
the mindsets and heartbeats and rhythms of all the people on the team.

"It's like you are from Yugoslavia, and he is from Nagaland. You don't speak the
same languages, or even have the ability to communicate in anything common or
recognized."

This was my advice to a co-worker who is having a giant misunderstanding with another co-worker. And I take heart. It takes time to tune in, people.

I'm gonna be more patient.
It's about time. It's about space. And no slappin. Just grace.

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Guess Who Came to Dinner?

He who's name may not be mentioned.

He who makes quiver every chef, owner, server, etc., in this industry.

He who waves his fickle wand-pen with some caprice.

He was distinguished looking.

He ordered well. Little gems, cherry tomato & bacon salad, Fresh Garbanzo Hummus, House Pita. A maker's mark manhattan, which he received in a vintage glass. Then, the halibut with corn-risotto cake, and the mixed pig platter.
They had 2 desserts--the peach galette with honey mint yogurt ice cream--(which I think is perfect), and the apricot-strawberry shortcake.

We are still quivering. We hope he gives us a rave. We need the 3 little stars.

He ran into some friends on the way out. Hugged one. We all smiled as we followed him out the door, with our collective longing for the big 3.

Craziest thing of all, I should feel this determined to please each and every guest that chooses to dine in our humble bar + kitchen.

Ya know what, I'm bringing that up tomorrow, in our pre-shift.


Tuesday, June 29, 2010

red, white and blue

patriotism. hmm. matriatism? love of the land...earth, soil...Venus?

oh yah, Venus.

which brings me back to...gratitude. and patriotism. just watch that John Adams mini-series.
that'll take you back.

so, 4th of July, we's a gettin ready....with the red, the white, and the blue. we love our land, we love this country, and we love to cook. and, to make good coffee. and, to make even better cocktails.

red white and blue cocktail? lemme work on that.....

Friday, June 18, 2010

REGISTER

gratitude

yes, gratitude.

after 16 (!) years of restaurant life, cheffing farm to table, and pushing the "little engine that could", I am happy to report that:
1. it is working
2. thanks to all the genuine and earnest people who chug along at my side, prepping, cooking, cleaning, polishing, checking in and checking back, communicating, and giving me valuable feedback
3. not giving up works
4. trusting in myself, and the great people I work with, pays off great dividends
5. coming in on time and on budget feels fabulous
6. following your dream, your gut, and your intuition....works